Crescent Moon Applique

I couldn't find a good crescent moon applique pattern for my Nightmare Moon Scarf, so I decided to make my own! It's super easy and works up in just a few minutes.

Pattern:

R1: Chain 15.
R2: sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each of next 2 ch, 2dc in each of next 3 ch, 2tc in each of next 2ch, 2dc in each of next 3 ch, hdc in each of next 2 ch, slst in last chain. ch1, turn
R3: sl st in each of first 5 st, sc in each of next 5 st, hdc in each of next 2st, sc in each of next 5 st, slst in last 5 st.
Finish off and weave in ends.

Easy Cat Toys

I made these cat toys for my local animal shelter. I needed to get rid of a lot of yarn that I have no idea why I bought, and I had a lot of scrap yarn as well. I think they turned out great (once I remembered how to crochet, it's been a while)! These balls are great for using up scrap yarn. I had a lot of little bits and pieces which I joined together with square knots to make the multicolored toys!

For these toys I recommend using an H hook with heavier worsted-weight yarn like Red Heart Super Saver or Craftsmart Value, as opposed to Caron Simply Soft. I have found that the Red Heart and Craftsmart yarns make nice, stiff toys, while the Caron makes squishy toys and the slightly thinner quality has a tendency of showing the stuffing through unless you use a smaller hook. Another great idea is adding a little dried catnip when stuffing.

Pattern

Key:
sc: single crochet
sc2tog: single crochet invisible decrease

R1: 5sc in a magic ring
R2: 2sc in each st around
R3: [1sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st] around
R4: 1sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st, 1sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st, 1sc in next 4 st
R5: 1sc in each st around
R6: 1sc in next 4st, sc2tog, 1sc in next 4st, sc2tog, 1sc in next 4st
R7: [1sc in next 2 st, sc2tog, 1sc in next st, sc2tog] around, stuff
R8: sc2tog around
R9: weave hole closed and secure end

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More Tiny Chickens

I made some more tiny chickens for my Ingress group, this time using not only Vanna's Choice Oatmeal yarn but also Craft Smart Desert yarn. For the former I used an E hook and an F hook for the latter.

The Desert chickens turned out a bit larger than the Oatmeal, so I had to improvise the comb and beak a bit to make them more proportional.

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Chicken Tissue Box Cover Pattern

I was trying to think of more projects that could be chicken-themed for my Ingress group, and was considering making Mario themed tissue box holders. The ideas eventually combined into a chicken tissue box! I couldn't find a similar pattern online, so I decided to make my own.

My pattern fits a square tissue box 4.5" x 4.5" x 5.125".

Pattern

Materials
J hook
G hook
Worsted weight yarn - I used Loops and Threads Impeccable for the body and Red Heart Super Saver for the rest
Tapestry needle
Safety pins

Key
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
MR = magic ring tutorial

Note: body, face, and back pieces are worked all in front loop only. Beak and eyes are worked in both loops.

Body (make three)
Chain 16
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across
R2-R15: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across
Bind off

Face (make one)
Chain 16
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across
R2-R5: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across
R6: ch 1, turn, sc in next 5 sc, ch 5, skip 5 sc, sc in last 5 sc
R7-R13: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across
Bind off

Back (make one)
Chain 16
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across
R2-R13: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across
Bind off

Feet (make two)
With J hook and brown yarn:
leg and toe 1: Ch 16, sl st in 2nd ch on hook, sl st in next 4 st
toe 2: ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch on hook, sl st in next 4 st
toe 3 and leg: ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch on hook, sl st to end of leg, bind off

Beak (make two)
With G hook and yellow yarn:
4 sc in a MR
R1: 2 sc in each sc
R2: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around
R3: sc around
R4: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) around
R5: sc around, leaving a long yarn tail

Eyes (make two)
With G hook and black yarn:
6 sc in a MR
sl st into first sc to join, pull ring closed, leaving long yarn tails on both ends.

Comb (make one)
With G hook and red yarn:
Ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st to end, ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st to end, turn and ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and to end.

Assembly
Using the safety pins, attach the face, back, and two body pieces together as desired, and either whip stitch or slip stitch to attach the pieces together. Make sure the mouth hole is on the lower half of the face.
Take the last body piece and attach using your preferred method to the four sides already assembled.

Attach the beak pieces to the face around the hole, using the long strands of yarn left on the pieces.
Using the tapestry needle and yarn ends, fix the eyes in place by "sewing" around the edges of the eye.
Weave the yarn ends onto the back of the seams on the body to attach feet in place.
Position the comb as desired and run the two ends of the yarn through the body, tieing them in a knot on the inside. Keep about one inch of yarn, in case the knot comes loose in the future.

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Tiny Power Star Plushie

After making my Super Mario Power Star Pillow I wanted to make a tiny version, so I made this one! It's based on Teena's pattern for stars.

Pattern

Materials
Small amount of worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft Sunshine)
F hook
Tapestry needle
Small amount of black felt
Fabric glue

Key
Magic Ring = tutorial here
st = stitch
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch

Star (make two)
9 dc in a Magic Ring, sl st into first dc and pull ring closed
ch 1, (*2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc* in next st, sl st into next st), repeat () around
Leave a long tail on one or both stars for stitching them together.

Weave both stars together using the whip stitch in the inside loops only (or your preferred join method). Begin stuffing when one arm of the star is left, finish weaving, continuing to stuff as needed. Fasten off yarn end and weave through the plushie to hide the end.

Cut eyes in the felt and attach with glue.

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Tiny Bear Pattern

Here's an adorable tiny bear pattern that's great for a keychain or charm!

Pattern

Key:
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc2tog = single crochet two together
magic ring = see this video

Materials
Small amount of Very Fine yarn
C (2.75mm) size crochet hook
Blunt tapestry needle
Thread or brads for eyes/nose
Sewing needle to embroider eyes
Stuffing

Body and Head
R1: Make a magic ring with 6 sc, sl st in first sc to join (6)
R2-5: 2sc in each sc around (12)
R6: [sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog using next 2 sc] around (10)
R7: [sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog using next 2 sc] around (8)
Begin stuffing body
R8: [sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc] around (10)
R9-10: sc in each st around (10)
R11: [sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog using next 2 sc] around (10)
R12: [sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog using next 2 sc] around (8)
If you want to use brads, you should attach them now.
Stuff head and use blunt needle to close up the head, secure.

Nose
R1: Make a magic ring with 3 sc, sl st in first sc to join
R2: sc in each sc around
Attach brad if desired.
Bind to head in position desired.

Ears (make two)
Ch 2, turn, sc in 1st ch, bind to head in position desired.

Front Legs (make two)
R1: Ch 4
R2-4:Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across
Bind off, leaving a long yarn end. Use some of the yarn and the blunt needle to form the square into a tube, closed on one end. If necessary, stuff with just a bit of stuffing.
Bind to upper body in positions desired.

Back Legs (make two)
R1: Ch 5
R2-5:Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across
Bind off, leaving a long yarn end. Use some of the yarn and the blunt needle to form the square into a tube, closed on one end. If necessary, stuff with just a bit of stuffing.
Bind to bottom of body in positions desired.

Use your sewing needle and thread to decorate your tiny bear, or fasten

I originally wanted this to look something like Dieter the Polarchuck from Neopets, but it turned out more like a regular bear and nothing like Dieter (mostly because I'm quite terrible at embroidery). His favorite food is snow, which is why I also crocheted some colored snow blocks for him as a snack.

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Cherry Blossom Pattern

Finally, I've come up with a good pattern for a cherry blossom applique! It took me a lot of flowers of trial and effort before I came up with a cherry blossom I'm satisfied with. I can't decide which I like more, the compact version or the one with the holes, so I've included both. Each flower takes only a few minutes from start to finish. You can use any kind of yarn with its corresponding hook to create the size you want. Larger sizes may benefit from the larger pattern, but both look great either way. Small Cherry Blossom: Row 1: 9 sc in a Magic Ring Row 2: turn, *ch2, sl st in next 2 st* around Row 3: sl st into next ch space, *ch2, dc, sl st, dc, ch2 in same ch space, sl st in next ch space* around Finish off, pull ring closed, and weave in ends!

Larger Cherry Blossom Modification: Row 1: 9 sc in a Magic Ring Row 2: turn, *ch3, sl st in next 2 st* around Row 3: sl st into next ch space, *ch2, 2dc, sl st, 2dc, ch2 in same ch space, sl st in next ch space* around Finish off, pull ring closed if you want, and weave in ends!

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Crochet Flower Pattern

I've been making lots of flowers lately, and wasn't quite satisfied with any of them, so I decided to try making my own! I really liked having the center hole in the flower for attaching with a button, but small, defined petals.

You can make these with any yarn and corresponding size hook, so you can make this in any size you want.

Pattern

Key:
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
st: stitch
slst: slip stitch
ch: chain

R1: Make a magic ring, 11sc in the ring. slst into first st, pull closed just enough to keep a hole but stitches meet.
R2: Turn, *ch4, sl st into next 2 st* around, sl st into last st.
R3: sl st into next ch4 space, (ch2, 2dc, ch2, sl st into same ch4 space, sl st into next ch4 space) around. At the end, sl st into the first ch of the last petal.
Cut a long end of yarn and weave into back of petals to stabilize shape of the flower. Weave in the end of the yarn coming from the ring, shaping the hole and ring to the size you want.

That's it! Let me know if you have any questions about this pattern or if I can make it more clear!

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Piano Key Scarf

I've wanted to make the Piano Key Scarf by Rachel Choi since I first started crocheting, but I never thought I was good enough. Finally after doing so much crocheting lately, I took a look at it again, and decided I was ready. This scarf was a present for my best friend because she loves to play piano!

Each key took a long time to do because of all the color changes, but after a few rows I didn't need to look at the pattern anymore to figure out what to do next; it was easy to figure out which row I needed to work and when. Sometimes I'd find myself pausing for a moment and thinking "what am I doing?" and then I'd realize I was already doing the correct keys, without even noticing!

I made a few changes based on azabuey's 88 keys pattern, namely adding some rows to the beginning and end, and 12 stitches for the black keys and 8 stitches for the white keys instead of 10 each.
Note: all additions are using front loop only and referenced rows are those in the original pattern.
After row 2:
2a: work row 3
2b: work row 4
2c: work row 9
2d: work row 10
Continue with row 3, following instructions for 7 repeats of 3 and 2 key sets, then continue as follows (after row 7 as the original pattern suggests):
Continue with rows 8 through 10
Work rows 3 through 7
Finish off.

I chose a reverse single crochet stitch for the border, to give it a bit of interesting texture but not distract from the overall pattern. It was my first time attempting this stitch, and I think it came out well! I really like how swirly it looks, and since it doesn't make a flat border, tiny fluctuations in the edges aren't as noticeable.

I used an H hook and Caron Simply Soft White and Black yarns. I used about 3 ounces of White and 2 ounces of Black, which equals about 105 yards of Black and 160 yards of White. The finished product was 52 inches long and 5 inches wide.

Here's a picture of some of her crocheted Zelda collection! The 3DS case is missing though.

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Tiny Chickens Pattern

I made these tiny chickens for the members of my Ingress Enlightened group, whose mascot is a chicken.

See my previous chicken doorstop here. These chickens are based off this pattern by The Nimble Mouse, but since I wanted to make them smaller with worsted weight yarn, I had to improvise the rounds a bit.

Pattern:

Make a magic ring with 6 sc.
1: [sc, 2sc] around
2: [sc, sc, 2sc] around
3: [sc, sc, sc, 2sc] around
4: sc around
5: sc around
6: sc around
Stuff and close up chicken with slip stitches in the back loops across the opening.

Embroider eyes.

Comb:
In 3rd st from left: sc, ch2, slst in next st, ch3, slst in next st, finish off and weave in ends.

Beak:
Just below the eyes, sc in an edge st, ch2, sc in next st, finish off and weave in ends.

I used an E hook with Vanna's Choice Oatmeal yarn.

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Catherine's Wheel Circle Scarf

My friend showed me this Catherine's Wheel Scarf pattern over at people webs, and I just had to make it! However, I didn't have any colors of Caron Simply Soft that matched, so I used some Red Heart Super Saver Baby Pink and Loops and Threads Impeccable Big White, crocheted together.

Needless to say, it didn't come out very well. It was my first attempt at the Catherine's Wheel, and proved very difficult with the bulkier yarn and two strands. I didn't do it long enough, and it was quite stiff. The stitch itself is very pretty, but I wasn't satisfied with the result. Perhaps I'll try this stitch again sometime, but for now I have other plans...

3DS XL Case

I made these two 3DS cases during a weekend of crochet inspiration at my friend's house. One is made from Red Heart Super Saver Earth & Sky, and the other is made from Caron Simply Soft Iris. Both of them are made with the same pattern.

This is the front of the Earth & Sky case. It took me only about 2 hours to whip together. The yarn is fairly bulky so it was very quick. The 3DS is completely inside the case, so when you fold over the flap it's protected.

This is the back. You can see where the flap begins because the pattern gets a bit off-kilter.

This shows the front/top of the case. Note how it can sit upright with the 3DS inside!

For this picture I placed the 3DS inside and folded the flap over inside the case.

The front of the case has a button my friend gave me. I think it was an extra button from a peacoat. It's off-center because I wanted it to be right in the middle of two of the shells. If I had made the loop one row earlier it would have been right in the middle.

This is the back of the case. I really like the pattern it made, and the shell stitch makes it have a cool texture!
This picture looks really neat if you scroll up and down while looking at it.

Finally, here's the case with the flap up and the 3DS XL inside!

Pattern

This pattern is worked in the round (continuous).

Key:
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
ch: chain
shst:

Base:
Round 1: Ch 24. Alternate start in 2nd hump from hook with 4 sc in last st, continue to the other side, 2 sc in last st.
Round 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to the end of one side, 2 sc in last st, 2 sc in first st of the other side, sc in each st, 2 sc in last st.

Sides:
Round 3: Begin shell stitch: sc in first st, skip 2 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 st. Continue the shell stitch around.
Round 4+: When you come to the first shell stitch, ensure you make the sc in the 3rd dc of the previous shell stitch, and the 5 dc should be in the sc. After you have done this a few rows you will know what to look for and automatically notice when you miss a stitch.
Round 5: When you have made the case fit the 3DS XL, end your shell stitches on one end of the case so you can start the flap. When you're ready to turn, either end on a sc or the third dc of one of the shells.

Flap:
Row 1: If you ended on a sc, ch 3, turn, and sc into the same stitch, then 2 dc into the same stitch. Skip 2, and sc into the 3rd dc of the next shell. Continue with the shell stitch to the end of the row (and end with either a sc or the third dc).
If you ended with the third dc of the shell, ch 1, sc in first st, continue with shell stitch to the end of the row (and end with either a sc or the third dc).
Row 2+: Repeat row 1 as many times as you'd like for the flap.

Button:
On your last row, you can pause at any time and make the button loop by chaining. Sc to attach the chain to the piece where you stopped working, and check that the button just slips through without being too loose or tight. If it's too small, make a few more chains and if it's too big, just pull out some chains. Once it's the right size, continue with the shell stitch to the end of the row and finish off.

Affix the button with some thread and you're done!

Good luck with your project! Let me know if you have any questions!

Infinity Scarf

I made this scarf as a slightly-late Christmas present for my best friend's mom.

I found the yarn at a rummage sale for cheap, only $1 for 4 skeins. I had never even heard of FedMart! It's called natura Ultra-Aire, 50% Acrylic, 50% Nylon, in Brick color. You can't really tell from the picture, but the yarn was orange inside and had clearish-silvery fluff coming off it that made me want to use this for a scarf. I used about 1.5 skeins of this yarn. Each skein was 3oz, but there was no yardage listed on the packaging.

Here's a picture of the scarf flattened out. The dimensions are approximately 9 inches wide by 40 inches around.

Pattern

This pattern is worked in rows (not in rounds). I used a K hook. Stitch markers are recommended. Key:
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
slst: slip stitch
ch: chain

R1: Foundation chain the length you want. Mine turned out about 40 inches long. I recommend checking the size around your neck to make sure it's a good size for you.
slst into the first back "hump" to join into a circle, ensuring there are no twists in your chain.
R2: hdc in each of the back "humps" around, slst to join.
R3: dc in each stitch around, slst to join.
R4-R22: alternate R2 and R3 around. You can do more or fewer rows if you'd like.
R23: sc around, slst to join.
Weave in ends and you're done!

Let me know if you have any questions about the pattern so I can improve my pattern-writing skills, and help you with your project!